DAY 3-Saturday, June 16 Japanese Botanic Garden, Zoo, B.A. Design Center, Recoleta Cemetery
We got up a little later and went to the Victoria Crème, several blocks down Las Heras (right out of the apt. building), got café con leche with churros and medalunas except for me who got hot chocolate since I flubbed the word .I accidently got Tom a diet toast breakfast.We went to the Japanese gardens, which were small but nice. It would appear that there is a attractive sushi restaurant there. We then got a taxi to the zoo which has some lovely architecture especially the elephant building. It was Saturday so there were lots of families enjoying a sunny day. I liked the llamas best . Their eyes are so expressive and they were so polite when taking the food even though I have read they spit. We went to the B.A. Design center, had lunch outside at Primafila Restorante, Pueyrredon 2501. There was confusion about whether we needed a table in the sun or shade. People do not rush when they eat. If you wanted to you could stay all afternoon. Shannon got a lasagna and Tom and I got an Antipasta Italiano plate for two with frisee, blue cheese, olives, prosciutto, fried brie, thinly sliced sweet potatoes and zucchini. Wine was something like Don Don chardonnay.Shannon headed back to the U.S. and we walked to Recoleta Cemetery, passing a flea market on the way, with lots of jewelry, paintings, and crafts. The police were arresting some skuzzy looking gypsies. Cemetery was ornate with lots of marble, no grass, and numerous cats. Evita’s tomb was black marble with many bouquets of fresh flowers left by admirers. We visited a beautiful church next to the cemetery. For dinner Tom and I walked about 15 blocks to Rigoletto, Rodriquez Pena 1291, a cute neighborhood place with high ceilings. I had Lomo Rigoletto with a red wine sauce with raisins and a stacked square of potatoes, and Tom ordered the seafood special, and RutiniTrumpeter Malbec which was very good. Dinner was $117 pesos. We walked back on Juncal.
DAY 4-Sunday June 17 Feria de San Telmo, Pink House, Cathedral, Avenue de Florida
We continued to look for a good internet connection and ate breakfast again at Victoria Crème. This time I order café con leche, dos churros and naranja. Tom gets toast again but with ham and cheese and a giant orange juice and only two churros. Maybe tomorrow I’ll get it right.We take a cab to San Telmo to the feria which is from 11 to 5 on Sundays. The cab driver was very chatty and said he learned his English in church since the service alternated English and Spanish. He dropped us at Defensa and Humbolt, which is at the top of the antique shops so you can browse as you walk towards the fair. The street is closed and people sell jewelry, scarves, shawls made oflaine(wool) and silk, foam puppets, paintings, mate cups engraved, and antiques. I bought several necklaces made of silver and black beads on a silk cord for $4US and some loose stones for jewelry making for $3. We had lunch at the San Telmo Restaurant, Peru 1017, which is a good neighborhood spot. Lunch was a Bife a Lomo and homemade ravioli, salad, and Flan con Dulce de Leche. The house red wine was excellent. Our next stop was Plaza de Mayo, 10 blocks left as you come out of the restaurant. We identified the small obelisk, and hiked towards the large one. We stopped in a church on the way and then saw The Pink House where Eva Peron often spoke to the masses. We walked a block two streets from the cathedral and came to Avenue Florida which is touristy, but in a local kind of way. We stopped briefly in Falabella Department Store, and got a taxi home. On the wayto dinner someone on a bike with two dogs, a setter and another both waiting at the traffic light at a very busy intersection until they were told to move and they raced ahead on the sidewalk. You don’t see that happening in the US. Dinner was at a crummy wifi cafe on Las Heras. DAY 5-Monday June 18 Galerias Pacifico, Avenida Florida, Richmond Café, Café Jorge Borges Coffee at the café on Las Heras and Ave. Pueyrredon with not good medialunas. The taxi went the wrong way . We wanted to go to Florida and Cordoba. We went by a dog park where handlers were walking up to 15 dogs, some with little jackets and others without (60 degrees out) There was a two foot iron gate around a circle somewhat like a racetrack and groups of dogs were patiently waiting their turns to run. Ave. Florida is touristo but fun in a tacky kind of way. We walked several blocks and then came upon Galeria Pacifica, a beautiful old building with interesting stores and an art gallery on the top floor, and lots of banos. The first store was a handbag place called Prune with lots of pretty bags, mostly in the $230 pesos, or $80US range. I found the Rapsodia store and bought a pair of dark, but not midnight jeans and even if they are “so 5 minutes ago in Argentina” no one has hopefully heard of them in the U.S. We ate lunch at Café Richmond , which is the oldest café in B.A. I had a hamburguesa-yum with not so good tomatoes but interesting bread much thinner than the U.S.., more like pita. Walked to Avenida la Nuevo de Julio to Café Tortoni; had café con leche and churros. Not as good as Victoria Cream but with better ambiance. Numerous text messages from Bexy begging to stay in Italy. Pictures at the big obelisk. Walk, walk, walk. Stop at Havana for banos and café and some decadent dulce de leche special pie of the day with brownie bottom, dulce de leche and cream and the meringue in little peaks with chocolate drizzled. Walked down Sante Fe. Tom found 3 pairs of shoes, soft black loafers, brown tassel leather, and casual two tone brown comfy shoes. Found big grocery store on way home and bought chorizo, bread, cheese and of course wine. Out for ice cream, to Freddos on Ave. Pueyrredon near Kampinsky Hotel. Tom got dulce de leche grandisomething-with chocolate if I had to guess. Home, a little French Open, and bed.